How to sew an overlay
Overlaid floral dresses can create glamorous evening gown-like looks, especially when combined with designs that incorporate folds and gathers, such as full skirts or draped cowl necks, as seen on vintage gowns from the 1950s and 1960s.
Choosing your fabric
Audition prints and overlay fabrics together with swatches before you begin cutting. Bright colors will inevitably be tamed by an overlay, so go bolder than you’re used to.
Sewing with sheers
Pre-wash all fabrics and then apply a spray stabilizer to the sheer layer, such as Sullivans, to give sheer fabrics more crispness. When sewing sheer fabrics, use a sharp needle in size 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10.
Narrow Seams
Large, bulky seams with obvious stitching should be avoided. Hems are another important consideration when sewing sheer fabrics. Wide hems can detract from the look of a sheer garment, but they are especially noticeable on an overlay.
Rolled hem
The rolled hem is a classic choice for sheer fabrics, but it requires a specialty foot. A baby hem can be made without one by stitching the raw edge of the hem 1/2 inch from the stitching line to guide the fabric into the crevice as you sew. If you have a serger, use the rolled hem feature to create an easy narrow hem for lightweight fabrics.
Floating or fitted?
The order of sewing will depend on whether you want an overlay that just adds texture or tone to the fabric or one that floats on top of the main fabric; you may also want to use different methods for different parts of the same garment, such as the bodice and skirt.
Fitted garments
This is a quick and easy way to add a sheer layer to a garment that requires almost no special handling once the pieces are sewn together; it’s best for fitted garments like pencil skirts or sheath dresses, but it can be used on any fabric with multiple seams and darts.
Floating garments
Keep the background and overlay fabrics as separate as possible for floaty garments, and sew the pieces for each main section of the garment separately. If your garment has in-seam pockets, the easiest solution is to omit them, as they can interfere with the look of an overlay.
Adding Zippers
If you’re making a full skirt with a zipper, leave a zipper opening on the main pieces and sew the overlay seam below the zipper opening, leaving a gap in the overlay that allows the zipper to open and close while allowing the overlay to hang loosely from the zipper.
Baste layers together
Sew any gathers, tucks, pleats, or other details that add fullness to the garment along the remaining seams. Hem the overlay and main skirt separately, using a rolled hem or a baby hem (as shown above) for the overlay.
How do you sew an overlay?
Place an individual overlay piece on top of each individual main fabric piece, wrong side of the overlay facing the right side of the main fabric, and baste them together along the edges. Stitch any darts after they are basted together.
What is fabric overlay?
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What can I do with sheer fabric?
Baste the layered fabrics together and treat them as one, or create a free-flowing overlay by sewing the sheer fabric into only one or two seams and finishing the remaining sheer edges, which can result in a stunning look for a dress or cape.
What needle do you use for sheer fabric?
When sewing, use a size 8, 9, or 10 needle designed specifically for sheer and lightweight fabrics, as well as very fine polyester or extra-fine cotton-wrapped polyester thread and a stitch length of 15 to 20 stitches per inch (on the machine, it will most likely be 1.5 to 2).
What fabric goes under lace?
Your lace or sheer will almost certainly be made of polyester or nylon… use gentle heat, avoid steam, and press with a silk organza pressing cloth to avoid shininess.
How do you put tulle over a dress?
Sew the tulle layers together with a zigzag stitch once you have the desired number of tulle layers. Sew the layers together along the stitched edges to connect them.
Can you add lace to a dress?
Yes! Every dress is different, but many have enough seam allowance to let the gown out between 1u201d and 3u201d, and a skilled bridal tailor can add fabric, lace, or beadwork to make the gown even longer.