Quick Answer: How To Sew An Overlay On A Dress?

How to sew an overlay

Overlaid floral dresses can create glamorous evening gown-like looks, especially when combined with designs that incorporate folds and gathers, such as full skirts or draped cowl necks, as seen on vintage gowns from the 1950s and 1960s.

Choosing your fabric

Audition prints and overlay fabrics together with swatches before you begin cutting. Bright colors will inevitably be tamed by an overlay, so go bolder than you’re used to.

Sewing with sheers

Pre-wash all fabrics and then apply a spray stabilizer to the sheer layer, such as Sullivans, to give sheer fabrics more crispness. When sewing sheer fabrics, use a sharp needle in size 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10.

Narrow Seams

Large, bulky seams with obvious stitching should be avoided. Hems are another important consideration when sewing sheer fabrics. Wide hems can detract from the look of a sheer garment, but they are especially noticeable on an overlay.

Rolled hem

The rolled hem is a classic choice for sheer fabrics, but it requires a specialty foot. A baby hem can be made without one by stitching the raw edge of the hem 1/2 inch from the stitching line to guide the fabric into the crevice as you sew. If you have a serger, use the rolled hem feature to create an easy narrow hem for lightweight fabrics.

Floating or fitted?

The order of sewing will depend on whether you want an overlay that just adds texture or tone to the fabric or one that floats on top of the main fabric; you may also want to use different methods for different parts of the same garment, such as the bodice and skirt.

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Fitted garments

This is a quick and easy way to add a sheer layer to a garment that requires almost no special handling once the pieces are sewn together; it’s best for fitted garments like pencil skirts or sheath dresses, but it can be used on any fabric with multiple seams and darts.

Floating garments

Keep the background and overlay fabrics as separate as possible for floaty garments, and sew the pieces for each main section of the garment separately. If your garment has in-seam pockets, the easiest solution is to omit them, as they can interfere with the look of an overlay.

Adding Zippers

If you’re making a full skirt with a zipper, leave a zipper opening on the main pieces and sew the overlay seam below the zipper opening, leaving a gap in the overlay that allows the zipper to open and close while allowing the overlay to hang loosely from the zipper.

Baste layers together

Sew any gathers, tucks, pleats, or other details that add fullness to the garment along the remaining seams. Hem the overlay and main skirt separately, using a rolled hem or a baby hem (as shown above) for the overlay.

What is fabric overlay?

An u201c Overlay u201d is a logical topology built on top of an arbitrary physical u201cUnderlayu201d topology to virtually connect devices. An u201c Overlay u201d network often uses alternate forwarding attributes to provide additional services not provided by the u201cUnderlay.u201d

Can you add lace to a dress?

Yes! Every dress is different, but many have enough seam allowance to let the gown out between 1u201d and 3u201d, and a skilled bridal tailor can add fabric, lace, or beadwork to make the gown even longer.

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What fabric goes under lace?

Your lace or sheer will almost certainly be made of polyester or nylon… use gentle heat, avoid steam, and press with a silk organza pressing cloth to avoid shininess.

What is the most common way to put together your fabric pieces when sewing seams?

Right sides together is the answer.

How do you sew fabric together?

How to Sew Two Fabric Pieces Together:

  1. Line up the two pieces of fabric and pin them together.
  2. Double check that the fabrics are smooth and aligned properly before sewing.
  3. Iron the seams open or to one side (depending on the thickness of the fabric) to flatten them.

What can I do with sheer fabric?

Baste the layered fabrics together and treat them as one, or create a free-flowing overlay by sewing the sheer fabric into only one or two seams and finishing the remaining sheer edges, which can result in a stunning look for a dress or cape.

How do you seam sheer fabric?

For most sheer fabrics, a French seam is the preferred seam finish. Start by placing the seam wrong sides together and stitching the fabric with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Trim the seam to 1/8″ in width, press the seam open, and turn the fabric right sides together.

Can I sew upholstery with a regular sewing machine?

You can’t use a heavy duty thread and an industrial grade needle on a regular household sewing machine when sewing upholstery, so make sure you use the correct machine for your sewing needs. Otherwise, your project will look inconsistent.

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