FAQ: How To Sew A Sleeve With Jersey Fabric?

How to Sew a T-Shirt

Previous posts have covered different types of knits and supplies for sewing with knits, as well as how to make a T-shirt.

Sewing with Knits: Making a T-Shirt

I used an interlock fabric for the t-shirt and ribbing for the neckline in this tutorial; just like sewing with wovens, you’ll want to pay attention to the selvage and lay out your pattern pieces accordingly, and you’ll need to use a stretch stitch to keep the stitches from popping out.

Step 1: Pin Shoulder Seams

When sewing a basic t-shirt, the first step is to pin the front to the back at the shoulder seams; before stitching down the seams, you may want to use something that will stretch, such as Pellon tricot interfacing, which is inexpensive and available by the yard at sewing stores.

Step 3: Prepare Neckband

Simply cut a neckband from your Interlock fabric and sew the ends together with a 1/4u2033 seam allowance using a zigzag stitch. This looks best on a dressier shirt and gives it a casual look.

Step 4: Attaching Neckline

Match up the ribbing pins with the pins/seams of the t-shirts to distinguish the front from the back (remember, the back neckline is higher than the front neckline).

Step 5: Add Sleeves

Knit sleeves, unlike woven sleeves, are very easy to put on. I usually mark the top of the sleeve (or not) and pin it in place, then attach the sleeve to the shirt with a zigzag stitch.

Step 6: Sew Side Seams

All you have to do now is hem the sleeves and the shirt, and you’re ready to go!

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Step 7: Hem T-Shirt

You can’t just straight stitch around the bottom edge of a knit and call it a day; a zigzag stitch will stretch but won’t look as nice; the best way to hem knits is to use a twin needle designed for knits.

Serging with Knits:

Steps 1u20137 can be done on a serger with a 3-thread or 4-thread stitch; if you have a newer serger, it may have a Cover Stitch setting, which is what t-shirt manufacturers use to get the double stitch on top and the chain stitch on the inside.

Beyond the Basics:

I learned how to make a t-shirt that fits well and looks great by taking Craftsy’s The Ultimate T-Shirt: Fitting and Constructio n class, which covers topics like grain, stretch, and neckline perfection. Sign up for Craftsy’s mailing list to be notified when there is a sale.

Is jersey fabric hard to sew?

Sewing with jersey fabrics isn’t as difficult as you might think; all you need is the right stitch and needle, as well as the right fabric for the job.

What needle do you use for jersey fabric?

A standard ballpoint needle, also known as a jersey needle, is ideal for most knit projects; use a smaller needle for finer knits and a larger needle for heavier fabrics. Ballpoint needles, also known as jersey needles, typically come in sizes 70/10 to 100/16.

Is cotton jersey easy to sew?

Jersey is a versatile fabric that’s commonly used for T-shirts and dresses. It’s usually made of cotton, but it’s also available in wool, bamboo, and silk. Working with jersey may seem intimidating at first, but it’s actually very quick to sew, doesn’t fray, is easy to wash, and fits well.

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Should you wash jersey fabric before sewing?

Most natural fiber fabrics shrink when washed, so if you don’t wash your fabric before sewing and then wash your final garment, your garment may not fit properly. To avoid this, wash and dry your fabric the same way you’ll wash and dry your final garment.

Can you sew jersey without an Overlocker?

Want to sew with knit fabrics but don’t have an overlocker or serger? No problem! While overlockers and sergers are great for handling stretch fabrics and creating a professional-looking finish (I love mine), you don’t need one to sew with knits.

Can I sew knits without a serger?

Absolutely possible, and even better, you can sew knits with a traditional sewing machine; in fact, sewing stretch fabrics with my BERNINA 350 PE, rather than a serger or overlocker, is my preferred method of construction. There are just a few things to keep in mind when sewing knits with your favorite sewing machine.

Do I need a walking foot to sew knits?

A walking foot, also known as an Even Feed foot, feeds the two layers of fabric through the machine at the same time, preventing the fabric from stretching out as it is sewn, which is why it is ideal for very stretchy knit fabrics.

Is a Jersey needle the same as a ballpoint needle?

Jersey needles are even more rounded than stretch needles, and are more indicated for knits than stretch wovens. Ballpoint needles have an even more rounded tip designed to avoid breaking fibers in knits and fabrics with spandex.

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What is a 90 14 needle used for?

90/14 u2013 suitable for medium weight fabrics, such as slightly heavier weight cotton, polyester, linen, and lightweight upholstery fabric; lighter weight fabrics, such as silk (chiffon, organza, crepe-de-chine), will require a smaller needle.

What needles for what fabric?

For lightweight fabrics like georgette or organdy, use a 60/8 needle; for medium-weight jersey, Lycra, linen, or calf leather, use a 70/10 or 80/12 needle; for heavy fabrics like jeans, vinyl, upholstery, or canvas, use a 90/14 or 100/16 needle; and for very heavy fabrics, use a 110/18 or 120/19 needle.

Why are my Serged seams wavy?

When the Differential Feed is set at 1, knit fabrics will stretch as they are sewn, resulting in a wavy edge seam. To correct this waviness, adjust the Differential Feed setting toward the 1.5 mark until the seam lays flat and even.

Can you sew stretchy fabric?

Choose the right needle u2013 all stretchy knit fabrics should be sewn with a special needle, such as a ballpoint or a stretch needle; use stitches that will hold the fabric’s stretch u2013 stitches must stretch with the fabric to avoid puckering and breaking.

How do you cut fabric without unraveling?

  1. Mark the area of the sweater that needs to be steeked with straight pins.
  2. Using your sewing machine, sew a line of short stitches around this area to keep the sweater from unraveling.
  3. Cut into the area inside the stitches with sharp scissors, being careful not to cut into the machine stitching.

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