How to sew an overlay
Overlaid floral dresses can create glamorous evening gown-like looks, especially when combined with designs that incorporate folds and gathers, such as full skirts or draped cowl necks, as seen on vintage gowns from the 1950s and 1960s.
Choosing your fabric
Audition prints and overlay fabrics together with swatches before you begin cutting. Bright colors will inevitably be tamed by an overlay, so go bolder than you’re used to.
Sewing with sheers
Pre-wash all fabrics and then apply a spray stabilizer to the sheer layer, such as Sullivans, to give sheer fabrics more crispness. When sewing sheer fabrics, use a sharp needle in size 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10.
Narrow Seams
Large, bulky seams with obvious stitching should be avoided. Hems are another important consideration when sewing sheer fabrics. Wide hems can detract from the look of a sheer garment, but they are especially noticeable on an overlay.
Rolled hem
The rolled hem is a classic choice for sheer fabrics, but it requires a specialty foot. A baby hem can be made without one by stitching the raw edge of the hem 1/2 inch from the stitching line to guide the fabric into the crevice as you sew. If you have a serger, use the rolled hem feature to create an easy narrow hem for lightweight fabrics.
Floating or fitted?
The order of sewing will depend on whether you want an overlay that just adds texture or tone to the fabric or one that floats on top of the main fabric; you may also want to use different methods for different parts of the same garment, such as the bodice and skirt.
Fitted garments
This is a quick and easy way to add a sheer layer to a garment that requires almost no special handling once the pieces are sewn together; it’s best for fitted garments like pencil skirts or sheath dresses, but it can be used on any fabric with multiple seams and darts.
Floating garments
Keep the background and overlay fabrics as separate as possible for floaty garments, and sew the pieces for each main section of the garment separately. If your garment has in-seam pockets, the easiest solution is to omit them, as they can interfere with the look of an overlay.
Adding Zippers
If you’re making a full skirt with a zipper, leave a zipper opening on the main pieces and sew the overlay seam below the zipper opening, leaving a gap in the overlay that allows the zipper to open and close while allowing the overlay to hang loosely from the zipper.
Baste layers together
Sew any gathers, tucks, pleats, or other details that add fullness to the garment along the remaining seams. Hem the overlay and main skirt separately, using a rolled hem or a baby hem (as shown above) for the overlay.
Can I sew upholstery with a regular sewing machine?
You can’t use a heavy duty thread and an industrial grade needle on a regular household sewing machine when sewing upholstery, so make sure you use the correct machine for your sewing needs. Otherwise, your project will look inconsistent.
How do you hem a multi layer tulle dress?
Adding a hem to a tulle skirt
- Prepare the layers by steaming or pressing the skirt with a press cloth to ensure that all of the layers are smooth and wrinkle-free.
- Secure the layers.
- Mark the hem.
- Cut the hem.
- Resew the seam ends.
How do you gather a dress at the waist without sewing?
How to Make a Gather to Cinch Your Shirts or Dresses (Using a Coin)
- Hold the coin against the outside of your top or dress.
- Open the elastic with your fingers with your other hand.
- Reach beneath your top or dress and grab the coin with your elastic (over fabric).
How do you change the back of a dress too small to zip?
Insert a gusset with an invisible zip into the back of a dress that is too small to zip up.
How do you shape a shapeless dress?
Mumu Chic: How to Give Any Dress a Shape
- Knot it. Right now, the knot is my favorite way to shorten and shape a dress because it’s simple and doesn’t require any accessories.
- Belt it. This is the classic way to shorten or add shape to a dress.
- Tie it. This is the best solution for adding a fun back detail or defining the waist without a belt.
What does overlaid seam mean?
Because you’ll be sewing two seams when doing this neat finish, this is the first seam you’ll sew, and you’ll want to press it flat after you sew the wrong sides together. Overlaid is also known as the run and fell seam.
Where is lapped seam used?
The two layers overlap in a lapped seam, with the wrong side of the top layer laid against the right side of the lower layer. Lapped seams are commonly used for bulky, non-raveling materials like leather and felt.