How to Install an Exposed Zipper
The Jade pattern includes instructions for inserting an exposed zipper at the center back; we’ll be following Steps 8A-F and 9 in this tutorial; if you use a different method, keep in mind that you’re looking for a way to insert a zip without a center back seam.
Step 8A: Baste the zipper in place
Place your skirt in a rectangle lengthwise along the waistband and back piece seam allowances, and place the zipper upside down on the left side of the rectangle to ensure it does not catch the lining. Check to see if the lining has been caught, and that the seam allowances have been folded correctly.
Step 8B: Sew right side
Sew the right side of the zipper, starting at the top with the zipper open and stopping with the needle down when you get close to the zipper pull. Pull up your presser foot and close the zipper on a sewing machine.
Step 8C: Turn under
Tuck the bottom between the shell and the lining, and then tuck the zipper under the lining to keep it in place. Turn the left side of the skirt to the right, so the lining is facing up and the back of the zipper is facing you.
Step 8D: Baste and sew left side
Pull the triangle down and sew it to the zipper ends, trying to catch it along its broadest side. Flip the left side of the skirt onto the right, so the lining is facing up and the back of the zipper is facing you. Baste and sew as in previous step.
Step 8F: Handsew the lining
Unpin the lining and tuck it in, folding it along the teeth of the zipper, then pinning and handsewing it in place.
Step 9: Finishing up
I handstitched the waistband, but you can also use the stitch in the ditch method, which will result in an exposed zipper but no visible seams on the outside if all goes well.
How do you sew an exposed zipper?
Sewing an Exposed Zipper in 6 Easy Steps
- Stabilize and staystitch the seam before sewing it. Fuse a 1-inch-wide interfacing strip to the right side of both zipper seam allowances.
- Clip and press the seam open.
- Sew the zipper to the seam allowance.
- Trim away the seam allowance.
- Finish the zipper.
What is a separating zipper?
Separating zippers open at the bottom and allow both sides of the zipper to separate, similar to a jacket zipper. The type of separating zipper required depends on the garment; a metal zipper weighs more than a polyester or plastic tooth zipper.
How do you join two zippers together?
Take the slider down the zipper and fit the two sides of the zipper back into the slider by fitting the teeth (the small metal pieces that make up the zipper) into each other, which will realign the slider and the two sides of the zipper. Zip the zipper up to ensure that it is properly aligned.
How do you sew an exposed zipper in a skirt?
In a Seam: How to Sew an Exposed Zipper
- Cut and stitch the stay: Flip your garment the right way out.
- Continue: Continue in the same manner as the method without a seam, and this is what your end zip will look like!
What can I use instead of a zipper?
The following are some alternatives to using a zipper:
- Hooks and eyes.
- Snap fasteners.
- Eyelets. Velcro.
Can’t get zipper up on dress?
Gently rub the pencil tip on both sides of the zipper teeth until you see the graphite on the teeth, then try sliding the zipper in both directions in slow, gentle, and smooth motions. Do not attempt to force the zipper, as this will damage your item.