Readers ask: How To Sew Underarm Seam So It Lays Flat?


Because most women’s fitted shirts have an armhole seam that sits further in from the shoulder than menswear, the top of the sleeve needs to have a bit of volume to fit the shoulder comfortably. Sleeve cap ease is the easiest way to achieve this, but it can be difficult to sew in.

Setting in your sleeve

Sleeves can be set in ‘in-the-round’ or ‘flat,’ with all seams sewn before the armhole seam when sewn in the round.’ When sewn in the round, all seams are sewn before the armhole seam.’

Method 1: Easing by Hand (small amount of ease)

Sleeve cap ease involves using the bias binding’s stretchy/contracty properties to ease in the sleeve cap. Pull on opposite sides of the seam with your fingers to contract the fabric. If you can’t easily contract the fabric to fit, use easing stitches.

How do you finish a sleeveless armhole seam?

To finish an armhole, press in the seamline edge and sew close to the fold. Trim away the excess fabric close to the stitching line with appliquu00e9 scissors. Fold the edge in again and sew in place.

How do you make seams lay flat?

To get the seam to lay flat, press the backside of your fabric piece first, then press your seams however you like. Finally, turn your piece over and lightly press the front side of your seam as well, which will set the seam from both sides.

Which way do you press armhole seams?

Before the side and sleeve seams are sewn, it is placed on the flat.

  1. Pin the sleeve into the armholes with right sides together, matching the notches along the way.
  2. Press the seam open, then press the seam towards the sleeve (away from the body).
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How do you flatten vinyl seams?

Put a little leather glue underneath the seams before hammering them down if you need really flat seams or for the seams to stay open. A hammer is also great for reducing bulk in seams; just hit gently to compress the vinyl and make it easier for your machine to go over.

How do you sew a flat felled seam by hand?

Sewing hints for nerds: the flat – fell seam

  1. Start by identifying the “right side” and “wrong side” of your fabric.
  2. Pin your fabric, wrong sides together, along the raw edges to be seamed.
  3. Stitch with your usual seam allowance, as dictated by the pattern you’re using.

What is a flat felled seam used for?

The flat – felled seam is the type of seam used in making denim jeans, although it appears inside-out to reduce stitching, and it is also used in traditional tipi construction. There are flat – felled seams and lap- felled seams.

What is a mock flat felled seam?

Flat fell seams are used to strengthen garments and are commonly seen on heavy weight fabrics like denim and canvas. From the outside, it appears to be a regular flat fell seam, but closer inspection reveals that it is most likely a mock flat fell.

What are the pressing techniques?

5. Press curved seams and shaped areas over a pressing ham, roll, or cushion (Figure1) to help mold the garment to the figure from the wide to the narrow part of the garment–from the hem to the waist of the skirt, from the neck to the sleeves at the shoulder, toward the point of a dart, and so on.

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How do you fit an armhole sleeve?

Continue by pining the sleeve at both notches and the beginning and end of the armhole, ensuring that your sleeve matches perfectly between the end of the armhole and the notch (tip: two notches will always indicate the back sleeve / armhole ).

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