How to finish an armhole with bias binding
The Rushcutter’s are starting to resemble Rushcutters, so today we’ll finish the armholes with bias binding. I love binding as a finish because it gives you a nice clean finish without the bulk of a facing.
Prepare binding
If you’re using store-bought binding, cut a piece lengthwise along the length of the armhole; if you’re using homemade binding, fold it before sewing.
Join binding
Bring the short ends of the bias binding together at a right angle with right sides together to form a square. Pin in place and stitch across the diagonal of the square. Trim the seam close to the stitch line and press the seam open.
Pin binding to armhole
Pin the binding’s unpressed edge to one of the armholes, being careful to evenly distribute the binding around the armhole. Be careful where you place the binding seam – I recommend placing it somewhere where there isn’t yet a seam to reduce bulk.
Stitch
Trim back the seam allowance by 2-3mm (1/16in) if your fabric is thick or bulky. Stitch the binding to the armhole with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to achieve a smooth armhole.
Understitch
Turn the binding to the right side and press it (and the seam allowance) flat with your finger before understitching the seam allowances to the binding.
Edge stitch
Fold the binding to the inside of the dress, roll the seam line towards the inside, press the armhole from the outside, and tah-dah! You have a lovely clean armhole finish.
How do you finish an armhole seam?
To finish an armhole, press in the seamline edge and sew close to the fold. Trim away the excess fabric close to the stitching line with appliquu00e9 scissors. Fold the edge in again and sew in place.
Which way do you press armhole seams?
Before the side and sleeve seams are sewn, it is placed on the flat.
- Pin the sleeve into the armholes with right sides together, matching the notches along the way.
- Press the seam open, then press the seam towards the sleeve (away from the body).
How do you sew single fold bias tape?
BIAS TAPE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
- Because single fold bias is frequently used around highly curved areas, begin by pressing it in a curve.
- Step 2: Pin to Edge.
- Step 3: Overlapping.
- Step 4: Stitch Along Fold.
- Step 5: Fold Down.
- Step 6: Stitch Edge.
Can you French seam on armhole?
When setting in a sleeve, a French seam can be tricky, but with one extra step, all problems are eliminated, and your French seam in the armhole will be flawless. Seams in both the sleeve and the garment must be finished in a French seam before the sleeve is inserted into the armhole.
How do you press curved seams?
Straight seams can be pressed with an ironing board, but all curved seams should be pressed with a tailor’s ham or sleeve roll. Snip to, not through, the seamline round the curve to allow the fabric to shape into the curve.
What are the pressing techniques?
5. Press curved seams and shaped areas over a pressing ham, roll, or cushion (Figure1) to help mold the garment to the figure from the wide to the narrow part of the garment–from the hem to the waist of the skirt, from the neck to the sleeves at the shoulder, toward the point of a dart, and so on.
How do you sew on bias tape?
Bias tape with open edges (method 1)
- Step 1: Place the project wrong side up on a work surface.
- Step 2: Unwrap the bias tape and locate the wider side.
- Step 3: Transfer the project to your machine and stitch along the folded crease of the tape, removing the clips as you go.
How do you make 1/2 bias tape?
These are available in a variety of sizes, but I prefer 1/2 inch.
- Step 1: Cut yourself a rectangle of fabric.
- Step 2: Now find the bias.
- Step 3: Mark off strips along the bias by measuring equal distances from the line you marked.
- Step 4: Cut out your strips.
What is the difference between single and double fold bias tape?
Double-fold bias tape has three folds, whereas single-fold bias tape has two. Double-fold bias tape is used to bind an edge and is visible from the outside of a garment, whereas single-fold bias tape is used as a narrow facing and is turned to the garment’s wrong side.
What is the difference between bias tape and binding?
To begin, what is the difference between bias tape, bias binding, and bias facing? Bias tape is a bias-cut strip of fabric (or several strips sewn together) with two edges turned and pressed to meet in the middle. Bias binding is when bias tape is used to enclose the raw edge of a neckline, armhole, or hem.
How do you cover seams with bias tape?
Sew the bias tape to the seam along the first folded line. Fold the bias tape over so the center crease is hugging the raw seam edge, and press into place. Sew along the right side of the seam, 1/16u2032u2032 from the edge.