How to Cut and Sew a Pair of Jeans
Because jeans makers still rely on good ol’ hand-eye coordination, the clothing industry will probably be one of the last to see robots replace humans. Whether you pay $20 or $200 for a pair of jeans, someone somewhere in the world cut and sewn them.
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In this episode, we look at how jeans are made. Although the production of jeans has long been automated, the quality of the cutting and sewing is still dependent on the sewer’s abilities.
Design Informs Construction
The design serves as a starting point and a checkpoint to see if you’re on the right track; one of the most important aspects determined by the design is the construction, which includes how the jeans are cut and sewn as well as how they’re made.
Before Cutting Can Begin
Shrinkage tests are typically performed by cutting a 1u00d71 meter square of fabric, overlocking the edges, and washing each roll at the same temperature as the laundry.
Cutting the Fabric
In large-scale production, up to 100 layers of denim are stacked and weighted while being cut with a special textile saw; each piece is then marked and bundled by size, and assembly on a pair of blue jeans can begin.
The Four Stages of Sewing
The finer points of each stage’s execution are beyond the scope of this article.
The out- and inseams of the leg are some of the most difficult seams to sew because they must be perfectly straight, which takes practice. Leg seams are typically made with busted seams, overlocked and top-stitched seams, or flat-felled seams. flat-felling and overlocked top-stitched inseams are the most authentic ways to sew jeans, according to Paul Kruize and Lennaert Nijgh.
Lock Stitch vs. Chain Stitch
The most prized chain stitch is the one made on a Union Special 43200G. Some chain stitch machines don’t come standard with a folder, which means that the width of the seam is off on some newer machines. On unsanforized denim, you get a lot more roping.
Type of Thread
Polyester thread is superior to cotton thread in terms of stretch and durability; however, cotton thread is much weaker and breaks much more easily. The solution is to combine the two, creating poly-cotton thread, which has a polyester core with cotton spun around it.
Try Making Jeans At Home?
There has been a resurgence of interest in the craft of making jeans; some do it for fun, while others aspire to create the next big denim hit. Most successful people in this industry have years of education and/or experience working for other companies before going it alone.
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How long does it take to make a pair of jeans by hand?
An average jeans factory can produce about 2.500 pairs of jeans per day, with different machines for each handling. Making one pair of blue jeans takes about 15 minutes and 12 steps on average.
Can I sew my own jeans?
You can sew your own jeans (we’ll show you how here), and while it won’t be the simplest sewing project you’ve ever attempted, you can conquer it by breaking it down into smaller parts and paying attention to the details, which are crucial when it comes to great-looking jeans.
What kind of stitch is used for jeans?
Jeans are mostly sewn with a sewing machine, then overlocked to finish the edges; a 3-thread overlock stitch is all that’s required; there’s no point in using extra needle thread with a 4-thread overlock when the sewing machine has already sewn the construction seam.
Can you sew jeans by hand?
You can also hem jeans with the original hem using the hand-sewing method, which will make it nearly impossible to tell that they have been altered. To achieve this look, do not cut the jeans; instead, fold the existing seam to match the new hem line and pin it in place.
Are jeans hard to sew?
Denim is one of those fabrics that people avoid because it’s thick, which means that when you fold it or sew two pieces together, it just gets thicker, but sewing your own jeans isn’t that difficult if you handle it correctly.
Is it better to sew by hand or machine?
Faster: Sewing by machine takes far less time than sewing by hand, and you can complete machine sewn seams in seconds. While hand sewing is better for small precise projects like buttons, machine sewing will give you the most exact straight line possible.
Can all sewing machines sew denim?
There is no such thing as a jeans sewing machine on the market because jeans are made of denim or other thick fabrics that can only be handled by a heavy duty machine that can work with thick fabrics.
How much does it cost to make your own jeans?
Between the $50 production cost and the $200 retail cost (wholesale alone is around $120), the amount of marketing that goes into a pair of designer jeans eats up a significant portion of the difference.
What thread should I use to sew denim?
Use an all-purpose polyester thread to construct your garment, then switch to an upholstery or topstitching thread for topstitching. When sewing with denim, use a new needle.
What color thread is used for jeans?
Step 3: Hem Color Most jeans use gold thread for the hem; don’t use gold; you want your thread to match the jeans. Your new hem will STILL use the gold or whatever color hem your pants already have.